Cooking in Your RV is Easier Than You Think

One of the great benefits of traveling in an RV is that you can bring the comforts of home along with you. For instance, it is easier to get a good night’s sleep when you always have your own bed and pillows. My husband and I like being able to carry extra clothing and equipment for the various activities we enjoy such as hiking, biking, and pickleball. We also enjoy having photos, mementos, and favorite items that we cherish along with us. While all of these are great comforts of home, our #1 favorite is being able to make home cooked meals wherever we go.

Why Cook in Your RV?

We’re surprised by how many people we’ve met who are not comfortable cooking in their RV. If you haven’t delved into RV cooking, there are two very good reasons you might want to try it. First, eating at home is usually healthier for you since you’re able to control the ingredients and the portion sizes. Secondly, you can save a lot of money by dining out less frequently. We still like to enjoy local cuisine when we travel but eating fewer restaurant meals has been better for our budget… and our waistlines.

RV Kitchen Appliances

Luckily, the majority of today’s recreational vehicles come with a well-equipped kitchen. You won’t find everything you have in a full house kitchen, but most RVs at least have a sink, refrigerator, stovetop, and microwave. Many also have an oven or at least a microwave/convection oven combination, and some big rigs even have a dishwasher. We quickly learned that cooking in an RV kitchen is very similar to cooking at home, just with less space.

Even though using a campfire or grill to cook can be a fun part of camping out, making full use of your RV kitchen will give you many more options and add variety to your meals. Once you get familiar with your RV kitchen appliances, you will find that making your favorite meals doesn’t have to be complicated. A few pointers and a little practice are all you need to make mealtimes a breeze when you are on the road.

Probably the two appliances that people are most nervous about using in their RV are the induction cooktop and the convection oven. Of course, you should always read your owner’s manual for specific instructions, but here are a few tips to get you started.

Convection Oven

An RV convection/microwave oven is really two appliances in one. The microwave setting is used just as you would at home for things like reheating foods, cooking packaged meals, or making popcorn. However, the additional convection setting allows it to work like a standard kitchen oven so you can bake all kinds of foods including cakes, breads, casseroles, and roasts.

Convection ovens use a fan to force warm air around, over, and under food as it is cooking. Because the air needs to get on all sides of the food, pans should be placed on a metal rack rather than directly on the bottom of the oven. Other ways to help the air circulate more effectively are using bakeware with lower sides and avoiding overcrowding the oven.

Since the hot circulating air maintains a steady temperature, foods tend to cook more quickly and evenly. After you get used to baking in your convection oven, you will know how to make minor cooking time adjustments for your recipes. The good news is you don’t need to buy any special pans as glass, metal and even silicone baking cups work fine in a convection oven. Just be sure to never use metal when using the microwave functions!

Induction Cooktop

An induction cooktop cooks differently than a gas or electric stove. It uses a magnetic field to generate heat and then transfers it directly to your metal cookware, skipping the need to heat the surface first. Because there is no heat lost between the cooking surface and the pot, induction cooking is much faster and more energy efficient than standard cooktops. The cool-to-the-touch flat surface is also easy to clean.

Once you become familiar with your induction cooktop’s settings, you will enjoy the precise temperature control it offers. The burners even detect and adjust to the cookware size. I like to have prep work done before I start cooking because it takes just minutes for water to boil or for meats and veggies to sauté. Any item you normally cook on a stovetop can be done on an induction cooktop with ease!

One important thing for induction cooking is having the right kind of cookware (I use a great space saving stackable set from Magma). Pots and pans with a high metal content at the base work best, and can include cast iron, steel, and magnetic stainless steel. An easy way to test a pan is to hold a magnet from your fridge near the bottom surface of the pan. If the magnet sticks to the base, then the pan is magnetic and will work with an induction stovetop.

Adjusting to RV Spaces

One other aspect of cooking in an RV is adjusting to having less space, both in the appliances and in the kitchen in general. You can get around these challenges, though, by making some simple changes. Since it’s just the two of us in our RV, we find it easier to halve favorite recipes and cook smaller portions. I also try to balance cooking methods if making several items at the same time, e.g., one dish can be baked in the convection oven while another is heating on the induction stovetop.

Sometimes you may need to get creative if your counter space is limited. I have used the dining table or even a folding table at times to give me extra room for cutting, chopping, or mixing. If the weather cooperates, you can even take advantage of outside space and tables to help you spread out. Another way to manage space is to prep some items ahead of time before you need the space for cooking. The key is to be flexible.

Give it a Try!

Just like anything else that is new, RV cooking may take a few tries. But before you know it, you will enjoy the ability to make your favorite dishes (or even some new ones) while you are on the road. Here are a few of my simple recipes to get you started: French Chicken and Potato Salad, So Easy 3-Ingredient Orange Chicken, and my Best Banana Muffins. RV meals will save you time, money, and allow you to eat healthier so you can get out there and make more fun travel memories.

Happy travels and happy cooking!

Robin Buck

Robin and her husband, Mike, are Air Force veterans and empty nesters who have been traveling full-time in their Entegra Anthem motorhome for 5 years. Always ready to explore, they love nature and wildlife, meeting new friends and discovering America one stop at a time. Robin writes about their travel adventures, RVing tips, and the full-time RV lifestyle on her blog RVing with Robin.

RV Numbers – Ratings, Limits and Capacity

Every RV has specific ratings, limits and capacities related to weight distibution. 

We’ve all heard the saying – “It just looks like his number was up”. Well motorhomes have numbers too – lots of them in fact, which can be a bit confusing to a prospective RV buyer. It’s easy to view a spec sheet or brochure and understand how large the holding tanks are, how many gallons the fuel tank holds or how many BTUs the furnace puts out, but there is a wide array of chassis-related numbers that may take a while to grasp their meanings. Once you have narrowed down whether you want gas or diesel, a Class A or Class C and the approximate length you want, it’s important to understand the various weight ratings to ensure that the RV you are choosing is capable of operating safely within its design parameters. Following is a summary of those ratings that will help you to better understand what they mean.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)

The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, or GVWR, is usually the first number that anyone pays attention to on a motorhome. It represents just how big this RV is. In actuality, it represents how heavy an RV can be within safe design parameters – so it’s really a “not to exceed” weight rating. Every motorhome is designed with a chassis frame, tires, engine, suspension, brakes, transmission and other components to operate in a given environment. A heavier vehicle will have stronger components to prevent failure at higher weight loads and deliver satisfactory performance when in operation. If you load your coach up with full cargo, occupants, full fuel and water the total weight should not exceed the GVWR. This is why it’s important to weigh your coach when fully loaded to ensure that you do not exceed the GVWR of that motorhome. Note that this is the resting weight and does not count any towed vehicles or trailers other than the amount of any tongue weight resting on the hitch. Although, if you have a motorcycle carrier or golf cart mounted on your trailer hitch that weight may be a significant amount.

Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW)

The Unloaded Vehicle Weight, or UVW, represents the actual weight of the vehicle when empty as it left the factory. You may see this listed on some manufacturer brochures or webpages but keep in mind these are generalizations and your actual will vary according to what options are chosen on your coach. Your vehicle’s actual UVW will be shown on a placard within the motorhome. The UVW includes a full tank of fuel and any chassis related fluids, such as coolant and oil, but does not include any water or propane. Once you know your RV’s GVWR and the UVW, you can calculate the CCC.

Sleeping Capacity Weight Rating (SCWR)

The Sleeping Capacity Weight Rating, or SCWR, is calculated by multiplying the number of sleeping positions by 154 pounds. Every coach will state how many sleeping positions are in the coach. The RVIA came up with 154 lbs. as an average number. The SCWR number isn’t all that important any more, as we’ll see later.

Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC)

The Cargo Carrying Capacity, or CCC, represents how much stuff you can carry. It’s calculated by subtracting the UVW from the GVWR and then subtracting the SCWR, weight of the fresh water in your coach and the weight of the propane. The end result is the cargo carrying capacity.

It’s not the most useful because the SCWR is an arbitrary number at best. CCC is still used in towable RVs but is no longer used in motorhomes, being replaced by OCCC.

Occupant and Cargo Carrying Capacity (OCCC)

Occupant and Cargo Carrying Capacity, or OCCC, has been used in motorized RVs since 2008. It includes the weight of occupants, water and propane as well. If you have a pair of 250 lb. persons in their coach, a full tank of water (100 gallons equals 834 lbs.) and 100 lbs. of propane on board you’ll already have 1,434 lbs. used up and you haven’t yet loaded up any food, clothing or recreational equipment. Some motorhomes may only have a couple of  thousand pounds of cargo capacity while some of the large tag axle coaches may have over 10,000 lbs. It’s definitely something you need to consider and compare to your traveling habits when buying a motorhome.

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This example shows the OCCC as well as defining the weight of water used in its calculation.

Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)

The Gross Axle Weight Rating, or GAWR, is a weight rating of an axle. You’ll have both a front axle GAWR as well as a rear axle GAWR. If you have a tag axle coach, you’ll also have a tag axle GAWR. Most of the time your two or three axle ratings will add up to the GVWR but that is not always the case. In some cases an axle may be rated higher but the GVWR of the coach itself will be less due to limitations of the suspension, brakes, etc.

GAWRs come into play in regard to weight distribution. You may have a coach that is loaded up to the full GVWR, but if the cargo weight isn’t distributed evenly you may have one axle overweight while the other end of the coach is lightly loaded. This can lead to excessive stress on the suspension components and tires that are overloaded. This underscores the importance of having your motorhome weighed on scales when fully loaded. Ideally, you should have a 4-corner weighing at a facility such as National Indoor RV Centers. That will show you if you have any side-to-side imbalance where you may need to shift some cargo from one side to the other. But if that’s not possible, at least have a per-axle scale reading taken at a truck stop.

As a rule of thumb, single rear axle coaches tend to have most of the weight on the rear axle. The Federal Bridge Law limited the maximum weight of any axle to 20,000 lbs. This caused issues with the larger 37-40’ diesel pushers because all of the new amenities and ceramic tile floors added too much weight to the rear axle, leaving the front axle lightly loaded. Fortunately, the NHTSA changed the rules in 2008, allowing motorhomes to have higher axle rating. Currently most of the larger single-axle diesel pushers are equipped with upgraded 24K rated axles to restore some cargo capacity. If you have a tag axle coach, just the opposite is true. The addition of the tag axle gives you greater cargo capacity so you’ll be hard pressed to overload the rear axles on a tag axle coach. But the tag axle also acts as a fulcrum, shifting more weight to the front steer axle, which can cause it to exceed its GAWR. When looking to buy a tag axle coach, pay close attention to the GAWR on the front axle.,

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A typical placard, this one from a 2007 Allegro Bus, showing GVWR, GCWR, CCC and SCWR.

RV Hitch Rating

Your trailer hitch should be stamped with a pair of ratings, although you might have crawl under the hitch to find it. The first is the tongue weight and the second is the rating of how much you can pull. Tongue weights aren’t a problem if you are flat towing with a towbar because the towbar merely acts as a connector between the two vehicles and the only weight that is applied to the motorhome is part of the weight of just the towbar. If you have a trailer you will need to check  the tongue weight of that trailer when loaded to ensure that it doesn’t exceed what is stamped on the hitch. You may have to shift some of the trailer’s cargo rearward if excessive. If you utilize a hitch mounted carrier for a motorcycle lift, you’ll also need to ensure that your hitch is rated to carry that additional weight.

Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR)

The Gross Combined Weight Rating, or GCWR, is the total weight of the combination of motorhome and anything it is towing. The GCWR will exceed the GVWR by anywhere from 3,000 to 10,000 lbs. It’s not strictly an indication of how much you can tow but it is designed to prevent damage to the engine and its cooling system, the transmission and other components. If you are loaded up to the full GVWR when traveling, the difference between the GCWR and GVWR will be your maximum towing ability. If you are traveling at less than your GVWR, you can add those additional pounds to your towing rating. However, your ability to tow is limited by two factors.

First of all, the motorhome’s trailer hitch has a rating which you cannot exceed – so your towing capacity will be the least of either the hitch rating or the difference between the GCWR and GVWR. It’s like a chain where the weakest length determines how much the chain can lift. You may have a 5,000 lb. hitch with an 8,000 lb. GCWR/GVWR delta so you’ll be limited to 5,000 lbs. because the trailer hitch is the weakest point. Conversely, you may have a heavy-duty 20,000 lb. hitch on that vehicle, but you’ll still be limited to the 8,000 lb. delta between the GCWR and GVWR

Lastly, the GCWR is based upon having trailer brakes on your trailer. The brakes on the motorhome are not designed to safely bring your coach to a stop in the required distance when towing. Most RV owners prefer to tow four down with a tow bar so you will need to use a supplemental braking system with your towed vehicle.

Maximum Inflation Pressure (MIP)

Your tires have a Maximum Inflation Pressure, or MIP. The sidewall of the tire will designate the maximum inflation pressure as well how many pounds that tire is capable of supporting. Again, this is why it’s important to have your coach weighed on a four corner or per axle basis when fully loaded. Your tire manufacturer will have an inflation table for each specific size or  tire that they make. This chart will tell you what the cold inflation pressure, or CIP, should be  for that weight rating.

Once you have your coach weighed you can determine how much pressure is needed in your tires. If the tire is designed for more weight than what you will be carrying you don’t have to inflate it to the maximum inflation pressure. Reducing the pressure will give you a better ride and improve traction. It’s always good to run about 5 psi over what the chart states though to allow for any changes in the future. It also allows for a slight weight imbalance between the left and right tires. You must always use the same pressure on both tires on the same axle though, but you can have different pressures between the steer and drive axles. Always keep a minimum pressure of 85 PSI on large drive or tag axles tires to ensure the tire’s bead stays seated on the wheel rim.

By ensuring that all of these ratings are not exceeded you’ll be sure that you can safely operate your motorhome. Following is a list of links to inflation charts for RV tires from some of the major manufacturers:

National Indoor RV Centers blogger Mark Quasius profile picture

Mark Quasius is the founder of RVtechMag.com, the past Midwest editor of RV Magazine, writes for numerous RV-related publications and a regular Contributor to FMCA’s Family RVing Magazine. Mark and his wife Leann travel in their 2016 Entegra Cornerstone.

NIRVC Nashville Grand Opening + A Very Special Announcement!

The NIRVC Nashville Grand Opening took place June 20-22, 2023, and people from across the country enjoyed tours of the beautiful new facility, happy hours, meals, seminars and a private concert with the legendary Lee Greenwood, who is best known for his signature song “God Bless the USA (Proud to Be an American).”

Attendees also tuned in to a surprise announcement from NIRVC founder and CEO Brett Davis where he announced the launch of an all-new annual event that will take place starting in June 2024: the Music City Motorhome Expo VIP Experience.

This exclusive, 4-day shopping experience at the Wilson County Fairgrounds in Lebanon, Tennessee will feature an exclusive sneak peek at the newest model year motorhomes, the opportunity to speak one-on-one with RV manufacturers, seminars, music, entertainment and more.

Thank you to everyone who made the trip to join us for this amazing milestone! 

Learn more about NIRVC’s Nashville Lifestyle Center.

Learn more about the Music City Motorhome Expo VIP Experience.